I think you may be misunderstanding Google’s objectives. I believe they do “give a fat rat’s about the actual content”, they just use a different set of qualitative measurements than you are. They focus on relevance and usefulness, rather than style or comprehensiveness.
Google was the first Search Engine that really tried to truly understand and evaluate content. I believe their superior ability to measure certain qualities of content is what propelled them from startup to the giant they are today.
While I can appreciate the aesthetic beauty of a well-designed page or writing style, generally when I’m looking for specific information I prefer relevant and useful pages.
Perhaps Google should offer folks the option of retrieving documents sorted by aesthetic, stylistic or comprehensiveness preferences. I would propose a new search operator – Style:
Some suggested uses for the Style operator:
What do you think, should we forward this to Google Labs?